Wine 5 August 2008

Wines for barbecues

By Sarah Groves

Wines for barbecues

What’s more fun? Dodging summer showers in between grilling the sausages, or watching certain friends or relations not normally noted for their fondness of the kitchen (in fact, for some boiling milk can be a challenge), suddenly become chef de cuisine in their own backyard, resplendent in their new apron and masterfully brandishing tongs? The barbecue season is well and truly here, and apart from the smell of freshly cut grass, the aroma of roasted meats and charcoal both mark the arrival of the British summer. All that is needed is a selection of sun kissed wines which will complement or challenge the strong flavours of mixed grills and peppery salads and of course, perfect for sipping outside.

It’s interesting to take note of what our friends on the continent drink with their alfresco meals. Our own, locally-sourced ingredients give us a good base for trying similar at home. Think of the rich, oily goods of Greece - grilled sea-food, stuffed vegetables and herb-scented dishes calling for scented wines, or those that are strongly flavoured. Try a fresh, apricot and crisp citrus-fruit scented Assyrtiko from the Greek Island of Santorini with white-fleshed fish and crunchy salads. Sicily is also an interesting country in which to find a range of indigenous grape varieties to go alongside fish. Have a look out for Grillo, widely used in the production of Marsala, which is now being made with increasing success as a table wine in its own right, and is wonderful with tuna or swordfish. The red grape, Nero d’Avola, can produce wines with great richness and texture so is an ideal accompaniment to mixed grills and vegetables. In southern Spain, freshly-caught prawns are often prepared with chilli and garlic, whilst the local chorizo sausage is equally full of spice and intrigue. Spanish Garnacha (or Grenache) makes soft, raspberry and red fruit styled wines, and some of the better wines of this varietal often have a seam of peppery spice; both versions make ideal companions to these strongly flavoured foods. Look, also, to Spain as a source of deliciously fruity rosados, often made from Grenache and / or Tempranillo, which are full of soft, red fruit flavours. Rosés generally are wonderfully refreshing served as an aperitif whilst the barbecue heats up and will pair well with summery salads and canapés.

Off now to the southern hemisphere. The Australians are famous for their barbecues, which are usually generously endowed with the most enormous mounds of meat and the compulsory fried onions. We can’t easily acquire kangaroo tail meat here (very lean, tasty and healthy!), but we do have glorious lamb and cuts of beef. Create your own marinade to add extra dimensions of flavour. A fruity, spicy, full-bodied Aussie Shiraz, or a Shiraz/Cabernet blend will be muscly enough to counter all grilled meats with a degree of caramelisation from marinades.

Like everything to do with food and wine, the key is to have fun and experiment. We can learn a lot about food and wine pairing from other wine producing countries, and find wines which blend harmoniously with the flavours and textures of local dishes. Get a selection of wines open at your next gathering and see how your wines fare with different dishes; you may find a fascinating and unexpected match – but don’t blow your budget on sophisticated wines, when the charred ‘nuances’ of your burnt offering may just drown out the wines’ ethereal charm!

Sarah Groves studied winemaking at Roseworthy College, Australia’s foremost wine institution, and is part of the wine team at Adnams in Southwold.

Visit one of their Cellar & Kitchen Stores in East Anglia and Richmond.
T: 01502 727200

By Sarah Groves

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