Photography by Susanna Cook
Glyn Williams meets celebrated chef Anton Edelmann at his new restaurant Anton’s close to Stansted Airport in North Essex.
One would have thought after a long very successful career as Executive Chef de Cuisine at the famous Savoy Hotel on the Strand in charge of a 75 strong brigade of chefs that Anton would want to take it easy. Almost returning to his roots by starting all over again, this culinary workaholic is instead taking his talents away from the PR glitz in London and setting up this brand new venture in north west Essex at the behest of his good friends, the Marchelos. Having bought Great Hallingbury Manor close to Stansted originally to be their UK office, these experienced hoteliers (with several properties in the Caribbean delights of Barbados) decided its setting close to the well-to-do borders of this part of the Essex-Herts border and the worldly expectations of international travellers flying in and out nearby gave it fabulous potential as a top flight hotel and restaurant (Ed. - excuse the pun…).
Getting Anton on board was a distinct coup and by making the first phase establishing the restaurant in a stylish new build to the rear of the property overlooking the bird reserve lakes will give it time to establish itself as an address in its own right, preceding the hotel in the main house re-opening later in the year.
The prospect of joining this well known chef for a bite of lunch was a little daunting, we had met briefly before but in the presence of greatness… Instead my reservations could not have been more misplaced – his unending politeness and charm combined with a lack of pretension. Above all, his passion for all things gastronautical proved a clear demonstration of his professionalism and zeal to stay firmly at the stove.
I asked after his vision for Anton’s – “very relaxed dining, combining classical techniques and a modern lightness in the cooking but with a twist, giving a little surprise in every dish using as many local ingredients as I can”. Clearly the seasonality and freshness of what he can buy from artisan producers on his doorstep and further afield around the region is very important. He uses them to great effect as a theme for each plate, his ‘Mersea Island fish jellied and scented with old sherry vinegar, creamed horseradish, cockle and whelks’ is a modern take on that East End classic while marinated organic salmon comes with a ginger, caper and shallot dressing and under a warm potato foam. Despite the little clever nuances, the heart of his cooking is stylish comfort food, ‘pretty as a picture’ but to no detriment of flavour or texture.
One of my favourite dishes was a perfectly pink grilled rump of lamb with roasted beetroot, pickled pumpkin and its unexpected success, a novel dressing of minted walnut gremolata. Anton is a fan of serving two versions of the same meat cooked contrasting ways, perhaps quick seared fillet of beef with slow braised oxtail.
The secret to Anton’s (the man and the place’s) undoubted success here will be the menu’s diversity in tastes and styles of dishes, wrapped in a smart but unpretentious package with polished but welcoming service, a friendly smile at every turn and a desire to be “a local neighbourhood restaurant not a huge destination - the last thing I want is for it to be considered a posh place”. Down-to-earth indeed…
Anton’s at Great Hallingbury Manor, near Bishops Stortford
T:01279 506475 W: greathallingburymanor.com
