Tuesday 27 May 2008

If you want to make me laugh and cry in equal measure, just mention those three little letters, DIY…

My new kitchen is becoming a millstone around my neck. The background, briefly, is that when we moved up to Southwold we rented a pleasant but outdated house, having bought the Adnams leasehold on the Randolph at Reydon (a lovely dining pub if you’re up here on the coast, even if it’s not just quite as good as when we had it wink wink… Strangely many people think my friend David Smith, who owns it now and I are brothers, cousins or somehow related, I shall take it as a compliment, I think…).

Nearly five years on late last Summer, we finally sold our Colchester house and cut our ties, buying our rented house up here when the landlord announced he was going to sell. The downside of our cheap rent is that the whole place needs a complete upgrade. Taking advantage of some timely sales, we quickly bought a new bathroom, not without its hiccups, and then took another six months to finish the tiling (one unreliable plumber and distinctly DIY planners, not do-ers, in our house…) I should also mention that we bought the new kitchen and appliances at the same time, early Autumn and filled the garage to the rafters with the boxes.

After six months of arm bending and tripping over every time I wanted the lawnmower, I succumbed to my wife’s nagging and we called in the experts. Three joiners, three plumbers, one electrician and one labourer later, the kitchen is three-quarters complete. They’ve done all the technical parts, new central heating, lighting, sockets, plumbing back to the stopcock, wiring in the appliances, cutting in the sink, mitre-ing the worktops. The last wall units are going up this weekend and then onto the beautifying with the cornices, pelmets, plinths, door fronts, flooring, etc etc to be done. We should just about be finished by Christmas, just not sure which year yet. Oh the things I have to do to get new cooks toys.

Let’s talk food. Looking forward to seeing a couple of new openings shortly, that clever sort Henry Watt of the lovely Animal Inns group (IUP at the Mad Moose Arms and Mackintosh’s Canteen in Norwich and the Wildebeest Arms just south of the city) has snapped up the Hunworth Bell near Holt. TV chef Chris Couborough has bought the Crown at East Rudham between Kings Lynn and Fakenham, adding to the other admirable Crown he owns in Wells-next-the-Sea on the North Norfolk coast.

A few foodie highlights in the past week or so. The ever delightful chic ‘speak easy’ diner, Byfords for breakfast alfresco in Holt last Thursday, great to finally meet Iain, one of the partners and good luck with their new venture, the Kings Head in the High Street. And as I passed it on the way up, don’t miss their fabulous dining pub, the Pigs at Edgefield just outside the town (W: byfords.org.uk  W: thepigs.org.uk).

Recently I lunched at the ever delightful Crown and Castle in Orford with my great chum, David Grimwood - who’s got the charming Froize Inn at Chillesford, between Woodbridge and Orford, a champion of real local food. Nice to see a friendly face settling in at the C & C, Tim Sunderland, my old boss 17 years ago at Hintlesham Hall when I was a fresh faced student. Now he has joined the Watsons to help manage the Crown and Castle and their proper village hostelry, the Kings Head. Shame to miss them but Ruth’s filming commitments had taken them to Scotland - they can rest assured it is in Tim’s safe hands. Ruth was just made for her ‘The Hotel Inspector’ role on Channel 5. Now she is bringing her passion and authority to bear on big country piles, dragging the outmoded estates and aristocratic owners into the profitabilities of the 21st century soon to be aired on Channel 4.

Back to lunch, the humorous juxtaposition of two rather stout gentlemen proudly dining off the Ladies Who Lunch two course menu was not lost on us, but two courses under £15 was a snip not to be missed for cooking of that calibre. Lovely guinea fowl and pea fricassee and a simple rhubarb jelly with egg custard for me, a comforting shrimp and parsley risotto followed by a zingy lemon curd meringue for him.  (W: froize.co.uk  W: crownandcastle.co.uk  W: hintleshamhall.co.uk).  Who knows where the next meeting of our little luncheon club might take us…

Early last week, popped over to Bungay and had a quick cuppa and a slice of rhubarb and ginger with Gemma Parker of Humble Cake, who a year on from starting her artisan line in handmade products is thriving. If like me, you can’t live without your afternoon tea, and are too busy to start baking or just can’t face the washing up, why not have one delivered to your door every week or two. (W: humblecake.co.uk).

Ate twice at the Crown in Snape near Aldeburgh recently, first to write about their interest in local produce and devoured great fish and chips and then as it was yours truly’s 30 something birthday at the beginning of May, my lovely parents treated me and the family to Sunday lunch there. Great roast lamb and all the trimmings, outside during the heatwave, couple of pints of Aspall’s finest Suffolk cider on the side and finished off with rhubarb and ginger trifle (hold on that’s three rhubarb sweets in a week, oh dear, you can OD on these seasonal delights, especially as it is a natural laxative, though good for indigestion and over-eating (such a foodie quandary, more rhubarb or less to aid my body?)

Stop press ! The smart people at Thorpeness and Aldeburgh Hotels have just snapped up the Crown at Woodbridge to turn it into a smart townhouse hotel and restaurant. As it gets upgraded, I am sure it will become the address to eat at the in the town. Great friend of mine and great supporter of season since its creation, consultant chef Stephen David has been taken on to be the driving force behind it. He also has the very successful Earsham Street Café in Bungay (well worth a visit if you haven’t ventured over there) and Bespoke Events outside catering company. T & A Hotels also have the Brudenell and the White Lion in Aldeburgh, Thorpeness Hotel and Country Club and the historic Swan at Lavenham, in case you’re wondering you they are.  (W: aldeburgh-breaks.co.uk  W: theswanatlavenham.co.uk)