Tickell-ing those tastebuds

 Chef-patron Michael Henry Burgoyne of the Tickell Arms in Whittlesford, south-east Cambridgeshire lets us into his gastronomic world.

Why do you live and work where you do?
When I first saw The Tickell, I immediately fell in love with it. It reminds me of a slightly faded, decadent old lady with a dubious history, who has never known true love. I hope that what I do, can inject a bit of life into the old girl.

What makes this part of Cambridgeshire so special?
In this area, we have some fabulous local producers, butchers and fishmongers. A large part of my time, is spent looking for these great little producers to find the finest ingredients. Our garden also yields great treats, such as walnuts, herbs, fruits and edible flowers.

Any particular favourites you’ve discovered?
I am sometimes overwhelmed by the quality of ingredients I get. The game (when in season) is absolutely superb. Last year, the woodcock was without a
doubt the most amazing ingredient I have ever experienced. I wait with baited breath for this season’s…

Share with us a few of your producers…
John Hedges’s smallholding springs to mind immediately. His small herd of Manx Loaghton lamb are exceptional and grazed only a few miles from us. Oh and Dennis from the Brandon Brewery with his amazing ales and naughty stories, what a guy!!

How about further afield?
Bury farm in Melbourn has the very best pick-your-own Cambridgeshire strawberries. Plump and fat little beauties! I serve them in our summer pudding with a huge dollop of clotted cream.

And from the remainder of the East Anglia?
Stiffkey cockles are so good and samphire from Lincolnshire has been a real treat. We actually pick our own on a Monday ready for the restaurant on Tuesday. Put that at the side of the wilted rubbish I was sold in London – no competition!!

Where do you like visiting to eat and drink on your doorstep?
The Queens Head in Newton is my favourite place. It’s just up the road from me and is very unpretentious and well run, just simple food and great beer. Exactly what a good pub should be! My god! The rare roast beef and stilton sandwiches are to die for… Oh and they do beef dripping on toast too!

How about shopping or generally relaxing locally, any hidden gems as favourite places?
I escape to beautiful Wandlebury Park with the Great Danes, a great place for foraging too in the woods and on the grassy slopes.

Any other details about the local food scene.... where should season readers visit around and about?
Brandon Brewery near Theford is a great day out. And I always love a trip up to Brancaster Staithe where there is a lovely seafood shack that does the most amazing crab baguettes, fabulous walking and such special views!


THE TICKELL ARMS AT WHITTLESFORD
Back in its famously eccentric heyday under the patronage of its erstwhile flamboyant owner, one Kim Joseph Hollick de la Taste Tickell, esoteric and eclectic labels would have sprang to mind for his very individual approach to running a restaurant. Famously it is noted his sign outside banning the ‘insufferables’ included ‘left-wingers, long-hairs, CND-ers, jeans-wearers’ and those were just the printable stereotypes.

Michael Henry Burgoyne, his most recent successor, is much more laid back and welcoming, all are now welcome regardless of political persuasion or attire (well within reason on the latter…).

The eighteenth century building has kept hold of much its distinct identity, the striking peacock blue hued walls and Chippendale windows outside and the indulgent interiors within, decadently endowed with fabulous ephemera, art, ornaments, foodie accoutrements, and bedecked in a rich palette of colours. It feels almost foppish in an Edwardian gentlemanly kind of way, worn in and comforting, one almost feels the need to reach for a velvet smoking jacket to finish the experience.

But the food is very much 21st century though not in a clever Fat Duck kind of way, the bedrock of Michael’s food is French classical (the Gallic ancestry of his Brittany born grandparents is no coincidence) but given very much a modern edge. Training with the famous Nico Ladenis of the now departed La Tante Claire restaurant inspired his perfection and passion to go the extra mile. Returning from Dubai after six years where he was a consultant chef, Michael snapped up the Tickell Arms re-opening it last October, His very popular goose egg starter gives a taster, served in the shell on an egg cup alongside toasted soldiers, with the innards scrambled with Wash brown shrimps and smoked Fen eel, topped with Beluga caviar.

Alternatively favourite starters include his version of crab bisque or the classic steak tartare with Dexter rare breed beef. Plucking leaves from the vine outside the kitchen door to order, Michael braises them and serves them alongwith confit Whittlesford gooseberries and seared loin of Manx Loaghton lamb. Whilst signature desserts include the chocolate and espresso cremet (a French milk curd dish) or the rosewater crème brulée.

So as individual as ever, the Tickell is swiftly gaining a name for itself once again, hopefully now for all the right reasons.

North Road, Whittlesford, near Duxford, Cambs.
T: 01223 833128  W: tickellarms.co.uk