Steamed Fillet of Brill

Steamed Fillet of Brill with Braised Lettuce, new Season Broad Beans, Peas and a Smoked Bacon Emulsion (serves 4) Courtesy of Head Chef Justin Kett, at Aldeburgh’s smartest hotel, The Brudenell.

INGREDIENTS
4 thick portions of brill or other white flat fish, approx 120-150g each (alternatively fillet your own 2kg whole fish)
8 sprigs of fresh tarragon
4 baby gem lettuces, halved lengthwise
500ml chicken stock
250g broad beans, shelled and skinned if large
250g peas, preferably freshly picked
100g pancetta or good local smoked bacon, shredded into lardons
50g unsalted butter
Olive oil
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

METHOD
Warm four large shallow main course bowls or deep plates.

Roll out a sheet of cling film (20cm x 20cm) and smear it with olive oil, sea salt and ground black pepper. Place on one portion of fish and top with two sprigs of tarragon. Wrap it up firmly in both directions fairly tightly so the fish is sealed but without squashing the flesh, this will help the fish stay moist.

Lightly fry the pancetta or bacon until golden brown then drain off the excess oil and keep warm on kitchen paper.

Place the lettuces in a pan with a couple of tarragon sprigs, the chicken stock, butter and seasoning to taste. Cover and put on to simmer for 8 minutes.

Put a bamboo or metal steamer on to boil over the top of lightly salted water. Once the steamer is ready, put the broad beans and peas in the water and the neatly wrapped fish inside the steamer on top. Set the timer for 4 minutes. When elapsed, check the fish is cooked – the flesh will be slightly springy and firm and it will look opaque. Remove from the steamer and put somewhere warm to rest. Strain off peas and beans, also keeping them warm.

Remove the lettuces carefully and strain, reserving all the buttery stock. Keep lettuces warm. Reduce the cooking liquor by boiling to a glazing consistency. Once thickened, add the peas, broad beans and pancetta lardons.

Put two lettuce halves in each warmed bowl or plate. Ladle a few tablespoons of the emulsion of peas, beans and pancetta around each plate and place an unwrapped portion of the brill on top of the lettuce. It eats really well with some minted new season potatoes on the side.

To drink - a local rich dry white such as Wyken Vineyards Bacchus, or something equally grassy from overseas perhaps a French Sancerre or New World Sauvignon Blanc.

CHEFS TIP
this summery recipe works equally well with turbot, halibut or even smaller flatfish such as plaice, flounder or dab. Adjust cooking times accordingly to avoid over-cooking the fish.


The Brudenell

As seaside hotels go, few can match the stylish modernity and elegant cruise ship feel of the Brudenell. Literally a few steps across the Promenade, it sits as close as it possibly could to the coast, overlooking the famous shelving beach and cool blue waters of the Aldeburgh coast, bringing the nautical feel indoors.

An iconic landmark, it quietly nestles at the quiet southern end of the town but is just yards from the buzzing chic of the High Street, full of boutiques, art galleries and all the contemporary trappings weekending city types might seek when escaping the Home Counties. Like the town itself, the Bru’ has not stopped still, befitting one of the East Coast’s smartest seaside destinations. The complete refit some five years ago feels reminiscent of the grand sea-going liner age, with its Cape Cod style interiors and open plan, tiered dining and bar areas.

The arrival of Justin Kett as the new Head Chef is the next stage in its development. His top class background – most recently at Somerset’s Castle Hotel in Taunton where he was senior sous chef - has given him a great grounding for his first Head Chef role. Expressing his heartfelt gratitude for the opportunity Richard Guest gave him there, Justin credits his culinary guru, not for teaching him how to cook in terms of the basics but for giving him a proper appreciation of food - “flavours, seasoning, textures, training my palate, helping me to evolve my own style of cooking”.

Arriving in January earlier this year, Justin has really fallen in love with the coastal way of life, though choosing to work nearly every day and long shifts late into the night, he hasn’t found much time to relax in the sun or even dip his big toe into the North Sea.

A busy place come highdays and holidays, he and his ten strong brigade of chefs focus on maintaining the quality whilst refining their style of menu to cope with perhaps 200 guests on a bank holiday lunchtime. As with all good chefs it is not just mastering the craft of cooking but being a good kitchen manager and having the right team around you.

Justin’s food is very seasonal, seeking out as local ingredients as he can find, he is gradually building up close links with producers and suppliers. Asking how he describes his cuisine, he is reluctant to label it, “I just want to cook good food with great produce, reworking those favourite classics, nothing too precious.., I aim for an intensity of flavour, well timed textures and bold presentation”.

Choosing a signature meal, Justin suggested a crown of avocado and local crab salad with citrus marinated vegetables to start, slow roast Dingley Dell pork for main course with pork scratching and apple risotto, apple purée and baby spinach, finishing with hibiscus and rosé wine jelly with summer fruits and vanilla cream. A taste of summer by the sea indeed!

The Brudenell Hotel, The Parade, Aldeburgh, Suffolk
T: 01728 452071