Mistley is smack in the middle of huntin’and shootin’ territory. After the new pheasant season starts on 1 October, there are numerous shoots taking place around us, some of whose spoils I am the happy recipient of. I still have a difficult time believing that people don’t make more of what is such a superb meat to cook, as easy and versatile as chicken and more flavoursome too. I am told that whilst it is a growing demand, there still isn’t much of a market for game birds, which is such a shame as they are all so delicious and nutritious! Once the season is well underway, come late November and into December, the price drops considerably making pheasant very economical for the cook.
Pheasant can be purchased ‘oven-ready’ from good butchers, farm shops and farmers markets and sold in a ‘brace’, a hen and a cock. Early in the season, pheasant is very tender, becoming more robust in texture as the season goes on. Because pheasant is extremely lean, I tend to cut the breast meat from the carcass and leave the rest for the stockpot. Call me a philistine, but I don’t like roasting a whole pheasant - I find it has a tendency to dry out and can be a pain to carve. One great way to serve pheasant is as a paillard which is a handy little cutlet that can be prepared ahead of time. Bathed in a sublime mustard sauce and served with kale, one of my favourite veggies and if cooked unconventionally, it makes a delicious autumnal supper.
Breaded Pheasant Paillard with Mustard, Cream, Capers and Kale
Serves 6-8
For the PHEASANT
INGREDIENTS
12 boneless, skinless pheasant breasts
Sea salt and black peppermill
150g plain flour
4 free-range eggs, whisked
450g fresh breadcrumbs
METHOD
Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F). Place the breasts singly between two sheets of clingfilm on a flat surface and pound with a kitchen mallet until they are an even one centimetre thick. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Take three wide bowls, and in each one separately place the flour, eggs and breadcrumbs (do not mix together!). Arrange in a row - flour, eggs, breadcrumbs – and dredge each pheasant breast separately; first in the flour, shaking off the excess; then dip it in the egg mixture and then the crumbs. Keep one hand dry and one hand wet – alternatively use two pairs of tongs similarly – otherwise you will have to keep washing your hands. Make sure that the pheasant is completely coated. Set aside breaded pheasant breasts in the fridge until ready to cook – it can be done up to a few hours ahead of time.
For the KALE
INGREDIENTS
1 head of kale, picked over, rinsed and dried
Olive oil
Sea salt
METHOD
Place the kale leaves on a large baking tray and drizzle with olive oil and season with salt. Bake for 10 to 12 minutes or until the kale is golden brown and slightly crisped at the edges. Reserve and keep warm until pheasant has finished cooking.
For the SAUCE
INGREDIENTS
1 litre chicken or pheasant stock
250ml dry white wine
3 shallots, minced
500ml double cream
2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
1 lemon
Sea salt and ground pepper
METHOD
In a large heavy saucepan add the stock, wine and shallots. Bring to a boil over heat and reduce the liquid by half. Add the cream and mustard and cook for a few minutes until it is slightly thickened. Complete the seasoning by adding lemon juice, salt and pepper to taste. Keep sauce warm while cooking the pheasant and kale.
To finish the PHEASANT
INGREDIENTS
125ml light olive oil
60g rinsed capers
150g piece of Parmesan cheese
METHOD
Heat the oil in a heavy-bottomed frying pan over moderate heat. When the oil is hot but not smoking, carefully add the pheasant breasts to the pan without crowding. Reduce the heat slightly and cook each breast about 4 minutes. Then turn each piece over and finish cooking for another 2 minutes, or until the breast is completely cooked through and golden. Place the kale on a warm platter and top with the pheasant breasts and mustard sauce. Scatter capers over the top along with shavings of Parmesan cheese and serve immediately.
North Essex chef-restaurateur Sherri Singleton co-owns the Mistley Thorn dining pub/restaurant/hotel (T: 01206 392821 W: mistleythorn.co.uk) and the Mistley Kitchen cookery school (T: 01206 391545 W: mistleykitchen.com).
Offering authentic wood-fired pizzas, Italy has now come to East Anglia with Lucca, their new restaurant now open on Manningtree High St. (T: 01206 390044).
