If awards were given out for obsession and dedication, few hoteliers could compete with Paul Whittome and his wife Jeanne. Set in the chic environs of Burnham Market (seemingly home-from-home to more cosmopolitan London types than Chelsea most weekends) the Hoste, as it is affectionately known, has won nearly every UK award it could be eligible for over the years. But despite the Whittome’s owning it for nearly 20 years, there is little sign of any laurel-resting. Their latest address across the village green, the boutique Vine House, bringing another seven bedrooms to the business portfolio, was in July alone the featured hotel of the month in three separate top class publications – Homes and Gardens, Condé Nast Traveller and the American version of Vogue.
Indeed the Hoste has also appeared in the Times ‘Top 50 Hotels in the World’ list, some recognition for what was a rundown unloved if historic inn back in 1989 when they first grasped its potential. Far from a background in top class hospitality, Paul’s background as a potato merchant dabbling in property did not exactly prepare him for the rigours of the 24/7 lifestyle running a busy dining pub – restaurant – hotel.
Now for those of you unfamiliar with the idiosyncrasy of the Hoste and to try and build a picture of what to expect, I will endeavour to rise to the challenge and do it some partial justice. Back in the late Eighties, there were just three staff working with Paul, running an eight bedroom inn, traditional pub at the front, lounge and restaurant to the rear and the comfortable accommodation above. Nineteen years on and there has been a magical transformation. At the front it still very much looks the same, albeit stylishly face-lifted, a charming townhouse inn oozing period charm and full of that quintessential English quaintness, beloved of travellers from across the pond. But pull yourself away from the well stocked bar, look closer and the ingenuity of design and extent of the investment in every possible guest comfort start to sink in. Few provincial hotels have gone underground but this jet-setting couple toured the world to study toilets and subterranean loos were the way forward. Certainly the finest watering holes in Norfolk, these indulgent WCs are worth a trip in their own right!
Going from 8 to 35 bedrooms has seen every part of this property exploited with originality and resourcefulness, the years seeing two sets of bedrooms added around the car park, including the African themed Zulu Wing, not so unsurprising when South Africa born Jeanne is in charge of the interiors – it certainly creates atmosphere and a cosseting feel on a not-so-sunny winter’s day. Another exotic edge has been added with the creation of the Moroccan Garden, a covered terrace reminiscent of the souk, offering alfresco dining at its best.
Realising that there was little more that could be done to extend, but there was plenty of opportunity to accommodate more diners into the capacious restaurant areas, Paul set about looking at townhouses and cottages in the village with an eye to developing luxurious holiday accommodation. Walking around Burnham Market with Paul seeing his further 26 bedrooms dotted around, two things were clear, his pride and passion for what has become perhaps the most exclusive neighbourhood in the county and the sense of community it engenders. He clearly is delighted by the success the other shops and businesses enjoy and that by not venturing himself into retail, the village as a whole will continue to thrive, providing his guests with stimulating diversion around their decadent bolthole.
Paul’s entrepreneurial flair blended with more than a hint of altruistic patronage is enthusing. He realises the importance of investing in both the guest side of the operation and the ‘back of house’. The kitchen itself has been completely refurbished twice in the past decade or so, now boasting the largest AGA and island cooking range in the UK, full of technological wizardry to do a better and more efficient job. And what a task it has to contend with, come ‘the silly season’ and ‘highdays’n’holidays’, in fact the Hoste is packed from spring to autumn. But like polished parts of a well oiled engine, the 85 staff, 80% of whom are full time, accelerate up to the challenge. Paul clearly relishes the hand on the tiller, co-ordinating the business like a virtuoso conductor and recruiting the best people around him to be lynchpins in that task, namely managing director Emma Tagg, financial director Andrew McPherson and head chef Aaron Smith, well versed after so many years in the ‘Whittome way’ of doing things.
The Hoste formula was distinctly ahead of its time back in the early Nineties. Seeing how home living was evolving, Paul realised that in most houses upstairs was getting more formal, interiors packed with luxury, style and grandeur, whilst downstairs was becoming laid back for easy living, people eating and drinking in a relaxed fashion. Adopting that vision, the huge variety of accommodation here all shares the same common indulgent theme, with great thought given to every accoutrement and extravagance your average couple about town might require. In keeping, venture downstairs and informality reigns, the only rule is drinks only in the front bar, elsewhere anything goes. There are three different restaurant areas, lounge seating dotted around, the charming alfresco terrace, all sharing the same huge menu. Aaron’s catholic global array of gutsy dishes are born out of Paul and Jeanne’s travels, cherry-picking favourite cuisines and bringing them together in one irresistible selection box. But this is not fusion food, each plate is true to its roots, so one might choose a proper steak and kidney pudding, a Natal lamb curry or a red onion and goats cheese tart tatin.
Dining is clearly key to the success of the Hoste and whilst it has much worldly inspiration, starters ranging the continents from Thai fish broth to beetroot cured salmon via bang bang chicken and tempura squid, there are many home-reared dishes, British staples being a backbone to the vast A3 page. And whilst it travels the world, Aaron’s cooking is firmly entrenched in local ingredients, favouring suppliers and the best seasonal ingredients on his doorstep wherever he can incorporate them.
With winter fast approaching, North Norfolk game is firmly on the menu – Holkham venison comes as pan fried saddle with cauliflower puree, sauté salsify, baby spinach and chocolate jus whilst Aaron roasts the crown and confits the legs of local redleg partridge, serving them with parisienne potatoes, romanesco cauliflower, wild mushrooms and a port reduction. A popular and unusual starter is pigeon breasts, carved off the bone, with caramelised figs, toasted brioche, black pepper ice cream and a balsamic dressing. Of course being near the coast, shellfish figures heavily, Brancaster mussels in season are omnipresent, perhaps steamed open with chilli, ginger and coconut whilst Loose’s oysters are showcased, served no less than six different ways, hot with rarebit glaze, with garlic and parsley butter or tempura whilst cold, they come au naturel, with red wine shallot vinegar or as a ‘bloody mary shot’.
An enthusiastic writer and photographer, Paul and style conscious Jeanne are also avid travellers, eager to be in tune with the latest ideas on the hotel and restaurant scene around the world. His latest book ‘A Hoste of Ideas’ gives a flavour of their travels and what in their mind makes for a top class hotel.
The Hoste – heavenly indeed and truly one of a kind…
The Hoste Arms, The Green, Burnham Market, North Norfolk T: 01328 738777 W: hostearms.co.uk
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Posted 6 months ago