Game, set and match

The start of the new school year marks the beginning of the game bird season. Being completely lily-livered, I have never despatched anything larger than an unfortunate fly, but I really look forward to being able to buy fresh, local game at the butchers here in Southwold. Wild game is the best and most natural produce that our beautiful countryside has to offer, a million miles away from factory farming, especially if you can buy produce from well-managed, natural shoots – Holkham Estate in North Norfolk is an admirable example.

As Autumn leaves begin to fall and the first bite of winter takes hold, we can look forward to a bounty of local produce to enjoy whilst cosily ensconced in front of a roaring fire. Game, of course, comes in many forms, hoofed, furred and feathered, and the accompaniments to game (such as rich stocks or berried sauces) will have a huge influence on the choice of wine to pair with it. The basic rules of food and wine matching remain true; a harmonious balance of texture, weight, sweetness, flavour and structure.

The classic vinous pairing with game is Pinot Noir – usually from its heartland in Burgundy. Pinot Noir’s wild, earthy character combined with savoury Autumnal red fruit flavours and silky structure is the natural partner with game. Some New World Pinots with vibrant raspberry and loganberry flavours are perfect served with berried sauces, as are rich fruit-packed Grenache / Shiraz blends from Australia.

For game soups, try a fruity Beaujolais, whose lightness and generous red fruits pair well with hearty stocks with carrots, onions and pearl barley. Game birds such as partridge and pheasant are delicious served with a good quality Chardonnay – they have great savoury flavour, so a rich, buttery, golden number has just the right weight and texture to match it perfectly. Try darker, richer meats, such as wild duck or wood pigeon, with oak-aged Rioja or Chianti, where there’s fruit and enough acidity to cut through the natural richness of the bird.

Rabbit is a lean meat, soft in texture although can be stronger in flavour so wines from the Rhône Valley are usually a great match. Look out for organic examples as these vineyards are often situated next to the wild ‘garrigue’ scrub – they provide herby flavours alongside the spice and raspberry flavours more normally associated with Syrah and the other native varieties. Partridge, too, is good with red wines from the Rhône, especially those that are made predominantly from Grenache. Beer can accompany some game dishes well – a rich fruity beer like Broadside goes well with light game dishes such as a savoury terrine with quince jelly.

Venison, depending on how long it has been hung, is probably the strongest in flavour of all the game mentioned. I always think that a majestic animal like deer needs something equal in stature in wine terms. Try a really good Shiraz from Australia, a top Zinfandel from California or a super Reserva from the Douro Valley in Portugal. Don’t go for anything too tannic though, as a chewy wine won’t suit the soft texture of good venison.

We are incredibly lucky to live in a region where game is accessible, and an increasing number of pubs and restaurants feature local meats on their seasonal menus. It’s quite possible to have a dish whose ingredients have only travelled a few miles from the field to the table, and these tend to be the healthiest and tastiest meals. We can all raise a glass to that.

Sarah Groves studied wine marketing at Roseworthy College, Australia’s foremost wine institution, and is part of the wine team at Adnams in Southwold. Visit one of their Cellar & Kitchen Stores in East Anglia and Richmond (W: adnams.co.uk or
T: 01502 727222 for details).