Beach comber

Last month, when a friend told me the mackerel were being caught in North Norfolk as close to me as Sheringham I decided my annual ‘walking of the channel’ at Burnham Overy Staithe was overdue.

Getting the boat stuck on constantly shifting sand banks is not a good idea. Although not very dangerous, it can be expensive on the outboard and worse, could cause cancellation of that first greatly anticipated fishing trip. The buoys here do not conform to normal colour convention and without prior intimate knowledge gleaned on foot, navigation of the deeper channel navigation is guesswork. On the way out striding towards Scolt Head Island, more sea purslane and samphire can be casually gathered in ten minutes than you would want to carry back. Winkles and mussels dot the rocks making up the groynes and lugworm abound. This last creature is not really on the foragers’ menu (unless you are in the SAS or called Hugh) but very useful for fisherman. If you were to walk to the sea’s edge on the east beach on the lowest of tides (next one coming up Sunday August 3rd) razor clam shells poke out of the sand and are collectable if you are quick. The last time I walked the beach on one of these tides I noticed small squid had been washed up by the dozen. Thinking I would collect a few, before I had the second one captured, the first had wrapped its tentacles around my forefinger and bit me. I think the squid wanted me for supper - I mustn’t forget a bucket next time!

Returning from the beach along the wall that separates the salt water from the freshwater marshes I noticed alexanders, sea kale and wild fennel standing shoulder to shoulder. The view across the marsh showed acres of samphire bordering the creeks as far as the eye can see. July and August are not the best months for mushrooming, apart from chanterelles, so I generally browse around, exploring for what else I can find. My working cocker spaniel disappeared on a walk only three miles from home. Upon retrieving him, I discovered my first wild or escaped raspberry patch. I couldn’t believe that it had remained undiscovered. They were not huge berries, but delicious and abundant enough to collect half a pound at a time. There must be dozens of lanes that we have yet to discover on our own doorsteps. Incidentally if you know of any wild gooseberry bushes, now is a good time to harvest them too.

My recce of the creeks was not in vain as yesterday I successfully navigated the channels by boat and I did manage to go mackerel fishing for the first time this year. I caught seven landable fish and the family sat down to a very fresh fish supper. I didn’t choose to steam them with fennel branches nor serve them up with samphire and sea purslane on the side. Far too good a flavour to mess about with, I just sautéed the lot and we relished them buttered brown bread and a wedge of lemon. This evening I shall take Rocket the dog back to the raspberry patch he discovered for me, unless of course he has other ideas and brings back a summer truffle. Now that would be a first to remember…

Clive Houlder is a professional greengrocer and forager, responsibly and sustainably harvesting wild food from Norfolk’s fields, woods and coast supplying some of the county’s best chefs with wholesome natural provender in season.
T: 01328 738610